Anyone approaching the architectural total work of art immediately recognizes the strict geometric form with which the Lorraine master builder Nicolas de Pigage designed the estate in 1755 for Elector Charles Theodore of the Palatinate. From the bustling castle avenue, the gaze glides over the tranquil castle pond to the five-part ensemble of buildings, which radiates courtly joy and late Baroque elegance in its pink tone. The symmetrical unity of gatehouses, gentlemen's wings, and the main building captures the eye. The feet begin to move, southwards, to a day trip full of discoveries.
The tour begins in the courtyard. The museum trio is the first destination. Two stone lions greet guests already at the staircase. They lie in a vigilant pose and demand their respect before any stranger may pass. A gesture that already held significance in noble circles in the 18th century, as one can assume from the sight of the animals. Several putti and other royal animals confirm the impression. They have gathered under the majestic crown in the gable triangle of the main house and wait for their tribute.
The obligation has been sufficiently fulfilled for now. Where shall we go first? To the Natural History Museum in the western wing, which focuses on natural habitats around Düsseldorf and showcases dioramas and animal sculptures? Or to the Museum of European Garden Art in the eastern wing, which breaks down the approximately 2500-year history of gardens in terms of cultural history? The first destination will likely remain the Corps de Logis, the main section, which should be visited before a stroll in the expansive park grounds, according to the house's recommendation. A guided tour here explains the connections between exterior and interior spaces, between architecture and noble interests.
The group sets in motion. New insights await at every corner: individual interior rooms of the summer and hunting castle are associated with corresponding garden spaces in the exterior. The greenish-designed private rooms of the elector refer to the adjoining English garden with its rare trees in the west. In contrast, the pink rooms of the electress point to the French garden with water features and flower beds in the east. Thus, a strict and uncompromising distinction was made between the worlds of the sexes. Chapeau, Mr. Pigage, Chapeau!
Upon closer inspection of the stucco work and the decor, more details in the design concept of the estate come to light. In the numerous architectural embellishments as well as the design elements of the park, themes such as court hunting and rural festivities resonate, reinterpreted with ancient references and sometimes directed at the nobility. Roman gods like Jupiter, Minerva, Pomona, Ceres, and Bacchus are as present as the elector and his wife. A ceiling painting by artist Wilhelm Lambert Krahe shows the goddess Diana hunting in the moonlight in the representative dome hall. The mistress of the castle, Elisabeth Auguste herself, is depicted in a nearby medallion with a crescent moon in her hair – no accidental connection.
Anyone who finally leaves the mansion to approach the green spaces comes across four statues of gods that open the way to the park. They lead to the mirror pond, the avenues, waters, and flower cascades, which are found across 61 hectares in a star-shaped network of paths. As one strolls joyfully, there are chirps and hums here and there. When asked how many species there are on site, the castle team answers: "More than 80 bird species and over 300 species of beetles live in the park." Impressive.
Another question arises: Was there ever hunting on the grounds of the Maison de Plaisance, where the theme of hunting is so omnipresent? Visitors learn: No, there is no evidence for that. For Elector Charles Theodore, the castle remained a pure representation building during his lifetime. And it still is today. Without a doubt.
Excursion Tips
For culture enthusiasts, it is worthwhile to embark on the journey to Haus Bürgel in Monheim via the Urdenbacher Kämpe nature reserve for a day trip. The medieval fief and former Roman fort is located about a one-hour walk away. Today, the historic estate's manor house houses an archaeological museum that brings Roman history to life. A gain in knowledge is guaranteed here.
In addition, travelers can cross the Rhine by the ferry "Zons Urdenbach". In Dormagen, they encounter a windmill over 600 years old in the customs fort of Zons. The well-preserved fortification from the 14th century takes you back to the Middle Ages.
